San Francisco Downtown, March 2007

Living on the Edge
Neighborhoods in transition

It's Thursday night in the Tenderloin. Rowdy patrons spill out of a ramshackle dive bar whilst shadowy figures duck into an adult book store. A few doors down, a vibrant crowd of hipsters and bon vivants pack a tidy, well-lighted art gallery. Sound unlikely? Artists, musicians, creatives with a predisposition toward counter-culture tend to lead the first forays into questionable corners of many a metropolis. San Francisco, so inherently individual in nearly every other aspect, does not waver from this paradigm. What truly changes the texture of an urban enclave? Is it the gleaming multi-story developments that rise from deep foundations every few years? Perhaps the fabric is refined by a more nuanced influence. From the mean streets of the Tenderloin, to the industrial indifference of the Dog Patch and Mission Bay, pioneering arts and educational venues are transforming categorically overlooked, and in some cases, neglected neighborhoods from frightening to friendly, mediocre to edgy.

One of the most established galleries-come-night-spots to grace the Tenderloin scene is the Luggage Store at 1007 Market Street, with the nearby Luggage Store Annex, aka the 509 Cultural Center (509 Ellis), and Cohen Alley (between Leavenworth and Hyde) rounding out the artistic trifecta. Situated at the edge of the Sixth Street Corridor, on a block of Market that could be characterized as colorful at best and downright scary at worst, the pristine space sparkles like a diamond in the hood. Darryl Smith's assiduous TLC keeps it that way. Smith co-founded the gallery nearly twenty years ago with the mission of creating a space that embodies, "the intersection of art, social action and social justice." And the fact that it's located in one of the city's most notorious, poverty-stricken neighborhoods? "The Tenderloin is actually a very culturally rich neighborhood," Smith asserts, "We wanted to participate in one of the most ethnically diverse areas of the City." His philosophy is that an art gallery doesn't have to be an elitist institution. "We just want to become part of the fabric of the area," he says.

In similarly salutary fashion, The Exit Theatre exerts a positive cultural charge on the inner ring of the Tenderloin. The theater's founder, Christina Augello, has been a vested member of the community for over 24 years. Her independent theatrical company has a certain affinity with its surroundings, "The work we do is usually edgy and different, a lot like the Tenderloin. We have a sort of simpatico with the neighborhood," she muses, "We mirror each other in a lot of ways."

Throughout her substantial tenure, the district has seen a great deal of change. But what is perhaps even more remarkable is that much of what makes the area distinctive has remained the same. "For some reason, the powers that be have let it become a ghetto, but [the Tenderloin] has always been a place for transients, single people in hotel rooms," Augello states. This pervasive state of transience is ironically one of the few consistent qualities of the area. It's a trait that makes the neighborhood a bit more inured to so called gentrification. Unlike other parts of the city, such as the Mission District, there are very few single family dwellings that could potentially be converted into lucrative real estate. The densely inhabited residential hotels are there to stay, and the residents are protected by a complicated web of renters' rights laws. "I think the perception of the neighborhood has changed more than anything," Augello observes, "You've got your staple places that have never changed, now they are so retro they're contemporary." But as "gentrification resistant" as it may be, the TL has still seen a great deal of  movement over the years,  "The biggest change has been that there has been a revival in the nightlife department," says Augello, "Even more comedy clubs, burlesque shows, galleries, cabarets, and theaters have sprung up over the last few years. The RX Gallery and The Blue Cube are good examples." Even so, essential to the character of Augello's corner of the neighborhood are the distinguished major theaters that dot the periphery from Market to Geary and beyond. ACT, the Orpheum, the Golden Gate and several small reputable outfits surround its gritty core.

In a land not so far away, and perhaps not quite as gritty, major changes are afoot. Its moniker is not quite as immediately recognizable as the quirkily named Tenderloin. In fact, it's likely a safe bet to assume that a good many San Franciscans have never even heard of the Dogpatch. The extension of the Muni light rail, which currently only runs on weekends, this Spring, along with expanded service on three bus lines, is set to increase its visibility and make the hardworking waterfront district more accessible.

Erick Auerbach, owner of In Color 2 photography studio has had a front row seat to all the action for over 14 years. Situated on Third street, the main commercial artery of the area, he has seen the area transform from a quiet industrial outpost of Potrero Hill to a more cohesive community. His reasons for founding the studio there are simple, "I came out here because it was a cheap place to go," he admits, " There was an established community, but it was very small. Now there are a lot more artists." The area suffered through several years of decline through the nineties, when the demanding housing market of the dot com boom led to a smattering gentrification of the existing structural stock. Some new construction including "live-work" units for artists, graphic designers, and similar livelihoods also came into play. The conversion of existing industrial space to live-work units or other housing has been controversial but will likely proceed as in other parts of the city. New development zones including Mission Bay and the new UCSF research campus have infused the place with a new vitality. The main catalyst for change "comes from all the artists out here," Auerbach offers, "Anyone who hangs out in the city would know [Dogpatch] turning into a pretty vital place." Still, as uplifting as the arts may be, the true proof that a grid of city blocks has become an actual neighborhood  is much more visceral. "The fact that you see nicer cafes out here, but even more relevant, we have places to go for dinner," Auerbach laughs, "There is even a new wine bar which is something I never thought I would see out here." His studio has seen an influx of visitors over recent years, many of them are "definitely younger," a testament to the influence of the nearby UCSF Bakar facility. "Our studio has grown and evolved alongside the neighborhood," Auerbach says. Although some have criticized recent developments by labeling them as proof of gentrification, he looks forward to watching the changes take root. "It's nice to see more life out here,"  he comments. The current exhibit at In Color 2, opening March 9, showcases the work of local photographer Robert Dufort. The show, which is entitled The Signs Are Everywhere, focuses on urban minutiae that is usually missed by the average pedestrian. Dufort photographs the layers of scribbles and signage on the city's surfaces, and interprets the new images and messages they create. If the interpretation of random signs distills some inkling as to the future of our city then the artist is cast as soothsayer. In turn, our local arts community, always on the cutting edge, is a good barometer to measure the vitality of our neighborhoods...and the writing really is on the wall.

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