San Francisco Downtown, October 2006

Casual Italian
Caffeine and comfort food throughout Downtown

What sets San Francisco living apart from suburban existence? Is it the reassuring hum of reliable public transportation, the swift materialization of a cab with the wave of a hand, the steady stream of world class entertainment, the wail of fog horns and sea lions at night? Most would argue that the answer lies in all of the above, but also, in something slightly less palpable. Perhaps the essence of urban joie de vivre lies in the simple pleasures of everyday life – grabbing a hot slice of pizza after a night of painting the town, getting a well needed jolt of java at the corner café first thing the next morning, or strolling down to the neighborhood deli for some pasta and paninis; in short, cruising for comfort food, casual Italian, if you will.

Downtown has compiled a shortlist of some local favorites; places that satisfy not only immediate cravings and needs of City denizens, but also speak to something much deeper; these homegrown businesses are what bring residents face to face; they’re the glue that transforms an assemblage of a dozen or so blocks into something more cohesive: a neighborhood. One of the city’s most celebrated neighborhoods, North Beach possesses a rare quality; it somehow manages to cater to tourists, and yet remain beloved by locals. Its best known moniker is “Little Italy,” and the preponderance of Italian eateries and cafes leaves no mystery as to why the area bears that name. It seems that the pungent aroma of roasting coffee beans quickens the pulse; if this is the case, passersby may feel the onset of cardiac arrest as they round the corner of Grant and Vallejo. It’s the location of Caffe Trieste (601 Vallejo). Celebrating its 50th year of business, this local landmark is the literary heart of SF’s endemic Beat Movement. It also happens to be a great place to while away a Sunday afternoon over a steaming cappuccino. In the wee hours of the morning, nothing quite hits the spot like a hearty slice of toppings laden pizza. Golden Boy Pizza (542 Green Street) serves it Sicilian style, cut as a square slice, accompanied by a fork and knife. Aside from the obvious pepperoni and pepperoni options, a few novel choices, such as Clam Garlic, spice up the menu, though they may dash any hopes of a good night kiss.

On Russian Hill, the place to find a particularly potent cup of java – along with a DSL line and USB ports – is Quetzal Internet Café (1234 Polk). Though not exclusively Italian, the café serves gourmet cappuccinos and espressos (completely organic), along with hand-crafted biscotti. Their menu also features sandwiches, salads, pizza, beer and wine. For pizza and a pitcher, Front Room (1500 California) is the local favorite. This corner pizzeria has served up authentic Italian staples for over forty years. Gourmet pies range from traditional deep dish options to more innovative creations such as the Parisian Delight Special, topped with steak and sautéed mushrooms and bell peppers, or the unique Chinese Pizza, a medley of barbecue pork, green onions and cheese. Other popular choices include veggie lasagna, the Front Room hamburger and Portobello mushroom ravioli.

The Financial District is not a neighborhood in the most traditional sense of the word, but many industrious workers spend more time there than they do at home. Lunch options in the commerce hub tend toward one extreme or the other, either opulent venues designed for entertaining clients, or assembly line sandwich and burrito shops. But toprated Italian restaurant, Palio D’asti has an eatery that promises to fill the gourmet-on-the-go niche. While Palio Paninoteca (505 Montgomery) bills itself as an Italian style café, the main focus is the creation of fine baguette-style sandwiches with fresh, savory ingredients such as fresh mozzarella and basil. Salads and other light fare are also available.

The Mission District is home to one of the best Italian delis in the City. Lucca Ravioli Company (1100 Valencia) offers much more than the name would suggest. Light-as-air frittatas, marinated mushrooms, stuffed olives and enough salami and mozzarella to supply a dozen sub shops, all feature prominently in the gleaming display case. Friendly sales clerks with booming voices preside over the hearty spread, slicing and wrapping up heaping portions. Homemade pasta is the house specialty but most locals stop by for a sandwich or sundry picnic essentials en route to nearby Dolores Park. The shelves are stocked with robust Chiantis and other Italian delicacies such as biscotti and sun dried tomatoes. Just around the corner, Pizzeria Delfina (3611 18th) serves gourmet pies with mainly organic ingredients. In the early evening, the front sidewalk buzzes with conversation as eager locals sip wine while waiting to be seated. Inside the restaurant, which is a satellite of much more formal Delfina, next door, stools line an oak counter which overlooks a clean white kitchen where pizza-makers toss and twirl dough. In addition to their specialty, crunchycrust pizzas, a daily entree prepared in Defina’s kitchen next door, is chalked onto the ever-changing menu displayed overhead. Appetizers include house-stretched mozzarella or sweet marinated beets and ricotta salad. While the ingredients and preparations are high-end, the atmosphere is very laid back; the uniform of choice for patrons seems to be a well broken in pair of jeans and tee-shirt.

San Francisco’s newest bonafide neighborhood, known as South Beach/Mission Bay, is finding its footing as a destination, not only for ballgames, but for shopping and dining as well. For the most part, many of the area’s best known dining options are high-end, but there are a few non-fussy Italian locales making their presence known. South Beach Café (800 Embarcadero at Townsend) is one of them. One of the favorite spots in the area, the eatery offers breakfast, lunch, dinner, and of course, pizza, in a cozy atmosphere. Soccer is always playing on the TV screen and the espresso drinks are brewed up strong. Small personal pizzas and salads are popular choices for lunch. 

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